The Plague-Stricken Derbyshire Village
or What To See In and Around Eyam
By Rev J.M.J. Fletcher (1916)
Transcriptions by Rosemary Lockie, © Copyright 2013
WHAT TO SEE IN THE CHURCHYARD
The Cross
1.- The glory of Eyam is the old Saxon Cross,
The Cross. which stands in the Churchyard, not far from
the South Chancel door. Tradition asserts that
it was found on one of the neighbouring hills. It will be
noticed that the upper portion of the shaft, which
originally was underneath the arms of the Cross, is wanting;
and Rhodes, who wrote in 1818, says that the sexton of
the Church, who was then an old man, well recollects the
missing part being thrown carelessly about the
churchyard as a thing of no value, until it was broken up by
some of the inhabitants and the pieces used for domestic
purposes. When Howard, the philanthropist, visited
Eyam, about the year 1788, he noticed the top of the Cross
lying prostrate in a corner of the churchyard and nearly
overgrown with docks and nettles. Though the
inhabitants of Eyam had regarded this ancient relic as
valueless, yet because of the estimation in which it was held
by the great philanthropist, it became of much more
interest to them, and they brought it forth from its hiding
place and put it in its present position on the top of the
shaft.
G. Le Blanc Smith ) | EYAM CROSS. (8th Century). | ( Photo. |
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G. Le Blanc Smith ) | EYAM CROSS. (Reverse). | ( Photo. |
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The Cross is in all probability of Saxon work, and Dr.
Cox thinks it dates back to the 9th or 10th century.
Upon the front of the shaft are five scrolls cut in relief,
and in the middle of these is a trefoiled leaf. A slender
spray is cut over the volute which terminates in similar
trefoiled relief work. On the arms of the Cross are figures
of angels holding crosses. On the West side of the shaft,
above some interlaced knot work is a seated figure holding
a bugle. horn, and above it the Virgin and Child, &c.
The Cross seems to point back to the preaching of Christianity
in the neighbourhood before the erection of a Church.
Other similar, or somewhat similar, Crosses, or portions
of Crosses, are to be found in Bakewell churchyard, in
Taddington churchyard, at Hope where the fragments
have been brought from the Vicarage garden and recently
erected in the churchyard; and there are some interesting
Crosses at Ilam, near Dovedale.
J. Crowther Cox ) | MRS. MOMPESSON's TOMB. | ( Photo. |
Mrs. Mompesson's Tomb
2.- About seven yards East of the Cross,
easily recognised by the posts at the corner
and the overshadowing Yew tree, will be found
the grave of Catherine Mompesson, the heroic
wife of the heroic Rector of Eyam, who, with
her husband, remained in the village during the ravages of
the plague, and who herself was one of its victims. Over
her remains was placed a large tomb, the Latin
inscription on the top of which tells us that “Catherine the wife
of William Mompesson Rector of this Church, daughter
of Ralph Carr, formerly of Cocken in the county of
Durham, armiger. was buried here on the 25th day of the
month of August A.D. 1666”. At the West end of the
tomb is a winged hour-glass with the words “Cavete,
Nescitis horam”, (“take care, Ye know not the hour”). And
at the opposite end is a death's head, with the motto
“Mors mihi lucrum”, (“Death is gain to me”).
Thomas Stanley's Memorial
3.- Against the Chancel wall is a modern
upright stone which commemorates the virtues
of another hero of the plague times, Thomas
Stanley, the Puritan Rector of the years of the
Commonwealth, who remained in Eyam,
supported by the gifts of his old friends, and who aided
Mompesson in his ministry of mercy to the souls and the
bodies of his flock during these terrible months.
Old Sepulchral Slabs
4.- Against the same wall, on the opposite
side of the chancel door, to the left, are two
ancient Stone Slabs, which are probably some
750 years old. They were found in 1882, at
the head of a window in the old South aisle, and in
the following year they were repaired and fixed in their
present position. They, apparently, originally marked
the resting place of some warrior; and, centuries
afterwards, at some restoration or enlargement of the Church,
were utilised by the masons. According to the custom
of those early days, when they were used as memorials,
no name was inscribed upon them,- merely the symbol
of the faith of those whose bodies lay beneath them, and
the sign of their profession. “The Dagger and the Cross”,
which they bear, are said to have suggested the title for
Hatton's book.
The Sundial
5.- The elaborate Sundial, now above the
Chancel door, is worthy of notice. It was the
work of a Mr. Duffin, Clerk to Mr. Simpson, a
Magistrate who resided at Stoke Hall, near Eyam. It was
cut out by a local stonemason, William Shore by name.
Originally it was fixed to the South Porch; and in Mrs.
Gatty's Book of Sundials, it is described as occupying
that position, although in the plate which she gives it
appears over the chancel door. It was placed here at the
restoration of the Church, its own face having been also
restored, and a second motto added, on the corbels which
support it,- “Ut umbra sic vita”, (As the shadow passes so
does life). This dial, which is much more elaborate than
ordinary dials, was constructed in 1775, and bears the
names of Wm. Lee and Thomas Froggatt, Churchwardens.
The parallels of the sun's declinations for every month in
the year are given, and a scale of the sun's meridian
altitude. The names of different places are marked and the
F. Chapman ) | CHANCEL DOOR AND SUNDIAL, (on South side). | ( Photo. |
difference from English time is given. The original motto
on the top of the dial is “Induce animum sapientem”,
(Take to thyself a wise mind).
6.- A little to the East of the sepulchral slabs, on the
other side of the path, stands an upright stone which
bears the following curious inscription:- (The attempt
at rhyme will be noticed).
“Here Li'th
ye Body of Anne Sellars Bu-
-ried by this Stone. Who Dy-
-ed on Jan ye 15th Day, 1731
Likewise Here lise dear Isaac
Sellars, my Husband and my
Right, Who was buried on
that Same day Come Seven
years 1738. In seven years
time there Comes a Change
Obsarve & Here you'll See
On that same Day come
seven years my husband's
laid by me”
7.- Some tombstones hereabouts may be noticed, of
greater age than most Churchyards can show. Amongst
these is one to Abell Rowland, who died Jan. 15, 1665-6,
He was one of the victims of the plague.
8.- About 20 yards to the North of the East wall of
the chancel will be found the tomb of William Wood, the
Historian of Eyam, who died June 27, 1865.
9.- And about 20 yards North of the West wall of the
Tower stands another ugly heavy monument, which is to
the memory of Richard Furniss, an Eyam Poet, &c.
The Church Tower
10.- As far as the exterior is concerned, the
Church Tower is practically the only portion
of the Church which existed at the time of the
plague. It was partially rebuilt about the year
1619, it is said at the cost of a maiden lady named Stafford.
It contains four bells, on which are the following
inscriptions:-
JESVS BEE OVR SPEED 1659 G.O
GOD SAVE HIS CHVRCH 1658 G.O
JESVS BE OVR SPEED 1658 G.O
JESVS BE OVR SPEDE 1628
(The first three Bells were cast by George Oldfield, of
Nottingham).
11.- On the West side of the tower is a stone which has
puzzled many people. It bears the date 1612, and a
number of initials, amongst which, as the letters C.W.
testify, are the initials of the churchwardens.
12.- On the South side of the tower is an inscription
which tradition says was put there by a young man, in
memory of his lover, after her death. Shakesperian students
will recognise it as an adaption of a passage from
Cymbeline.
“Eliz. Laugher. Ob. Feb. 4 1741. Et. 21 |
Fear no more the heat o' th' sun,
Nor the furious winter's rages;
Thou thy worldly task has dune,
Home art gone and ta'en thy wages. |
I weep thee now, but I too must
Here end with thee and turn to dust
In Christ may endless union prove
The consummation of our love. |
Erected by Tho' Sheldon”. |
The Moore Mausoleum
13.- The ruinous building on the western side
of the churchyard is a Mausoleum which contains
the graves of some members of the family of
Mower, or Moore. Rhodes describes it as “an
oblong structure, formed by eight columns placed at
regular distances, and surmounted with urns, the
intervening space between the columns being built up with
stone walling; and on two sides are small iron-grated
windows, not unlike the light holes of a prison. Originally
this building had a heavy leaden roof, which is now
removed . . . the roof was an accommodation not
necessary for the dead, and the produce might be useful
to the living; it was therefore taken down and sold to
the best bidder. This”, continues Rhodes, who wrote in
1818, “though not a very delicate proceeding, is, at any
rate, making the most of one's ancestors”. Since then
the ravages of time have made it still more ruinous.
For those who have time at their disposal, and
are interested in epitaphs, a prolonged stroll about the
churchyard will be of interest. Eyam contains an unusual
number of poetic effusions, many of them from the pen of
Peter Cunningham, who was Curate here during the years
1775-1790; whilst some more recent ones were composed
by Furness.
OCR/transcript by Rosemary Lockie in March 2013.
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