A Pictorial and Descriptive Guide to Buxton, The Peak, Dovedale, Etc.
Ward, Lock & Co.'s
Illustrated Guide Books Series 1939-40
Transcriptions by Rosemary Lockie, © Copyright 2013
GUIDE TO BUXTON, THE PEAK, DOVEDALE, &c.
MOTORING.
WHILE it would be an exaggeration to say that the
motor is an essential part of a holiday at Buxton,
it cannot be denied that the car and the coach have made
it possible for those who either cannot or will not walk long
distances to visit quickly and in comfort many delightful
places which otherwise would have to go unvisited. There
are those who quite frankly admit that they take their cars
to Buxton in order to save the effort of climbing hills;
others use their cars in order to reach out-of-the-way spots
known to the angler or the archaeologist or the lover of
beauty; others, again, no less frankly boast of the delights
of driving far through this richly diversified country. For
miles, maybe, the road runs beside a rippling stream at the
bottom of a valley, the view is circumscribed by rocks and
trees and only a small patch of sky is visible overhead. Then,
suddenly, gears are changed, the road rises, the trees and
rocks are left below and in a few moments one is in the centre
of a wide-sweeping moorland landscape, with a horizon too
distant to define. It is not claimed that such transitions are
experienced by motorists alone - they also form one of the
joys of walking in hilly districts - but only a car can bring
the transition about with the speed that makes it dramatic.
Other pages in this Guide afford ample proof that such
transitions form but a small proportion of the delights of this
beautiful countryside.
Before visiting the district it is wise to see that brakes,
gears, tyres, etc., are in good order; but the hills are on the
whole far less fearful than those of Devon and the motorist
who keeps to the main roads is not likely to experience
difficulty. Of the lanes and bye-roads it is not so easy to
speak in general terms: such places as Litton Slack and the
Jenkin Chapel road are almost notorious in certain motoring
circles; but they are for the specialist only and not on
ordinary motor routes. Our maps will give useful hints to
those contemplating cross-country runs and short cuts off
the recognized routes.
Viâ Matlock, 165 miles; viâ Ashbourne, 159½ miles.
These routes are identical to Derby, 125¾ miles.
By way of Barnet (11½ miles), St. Albans, Dunstable, and
Fenny Stratford, to Stony Stratford (53 miles). Then by
road A508 to Northampton (65¾ miles). Thence the best
road to Leicester (97 miles) is by way of Market Harborough.
No useful purpose will be served by describing here the way
through Leicester, the Derby road being well signposted.
Some 5 miles beyond Leicester the curiously outstanding
Mount Sorrel begins to dominate the view; and 5 miles beyond
the village gathered under the hill comes Loughborough,
famed for its bells. Keep straight forward, and another
16 miles brings us to the outskirts of Derby. Unless there
is good reason for passing through Derby, motorists bound
for Buxton should use the bypass which carries one round
the west side of the busy city and to either the Ashbourn
or the Matlock road. The former is the faster; the latter
the prettier.
Viâ Matlock. The route (A6) is near the River Derwent
the greater part of the way, and is easily found through
Belper, Ambergate and Cromford to Matlock Bath (1421
miles), and Matlock Bridge (144¼ miles). Cross the Derwent
and turn to left. At Rowsley Station (149¾ miles), turn left
and re-cross the Derwent. Thence proceed along the valley
of the Wye, with the river and Haddon Hall on the right, to
Bakewell (153 miles). (If time is available, a recommended
alternative is to keep straight on at Rowsley bridge, and by
way of Beeley to the southern end of Chatsworth Park.
Beyond the northern end of the Park turn off on left for
Bakewell, thence as above). In Bakewell keep on across
the Market Square (Rutland Hotel on left) and thence past
Ashford (154¾ miles) and Monsal Dale. Thence ascend to
Taddington (158¾ miles), and descend to Ashwood Dale, along
which the road runs all the way to Buxton (165 miles).
Viâ Ashbourne. Hilly road through Mackworth, Kirk
Langley (on the right is the Kedleston estate, home of the
Curzon family) and Brailsford (7 miles from Derby). Descend
into Ashbourne and keep straight on till faced by a T-crossing.
Here go to right, beneath the curious old Green Man sign,
and then up to left. A mile or so on from Ashbourne the
gates of Tissington are passed on right, and on left several
lanes lead over to Dovedale, which lies parallel with our road.
After a long steady climb the road (its straightness has by
now indicated its Roman origin) reaches its highest point
(some 1,200 feet) on Great Low, between 4 and 5 miles from
Buxton. A steep descent leads to the town, 20 miles from
Ashbourne, 159½ miles from London.
II. BIRMINGHAM TO BUXTON.
By way of Sutton Coldfield (7¼ miles) to Lichfield (15¾
miles). Along Bore Street and Tamworth Street, and keep
to main road through Alrewas to Burton-on-Trent (28½
miles). At end of High Street and Wetmoor Road turn left
over railway, and then right into the main road to Derby
(39½ miles). For Derby to Buxton (78¾ miles from
Birmingham), see Route I.
A preferable route in several ways is that by way of Sutton
Coldfield to Lichfield as above. At Alrewas, however, leave
the Burton road by one on the left running by Yoxall to
Sudbury and so to Ashbourne. Though slightly longer, the
road is often quicker than the Burton - Derby road and is
certainly more pleasant.
III. SHEFFIELD TO BUXTON.
Leave Sheffield by road No. A621, which climbs through
Dore and Totley to Owler Bar, about 1,000 feet above sea-level.
Take the left-hand road at the Bar. Some 2 miles
beyond, the road begins to descend to Baslow (12¾ miles),
with Gardom Edge above on the left. Thence by Stoney
Middleton (15¾ miles) and through Middleton Dale to
Tideswell (19¾ miles), beyond which the road runs down to Miller's
Dale Station. Cross the bridge just beyond the viaduct and
climb the long ascent through Blackwell Dale, and on to the
main road, where turn right to Topley Pike (25 miles). From
this there is a steep descent followed by a nearly level run
through Ashwood Dale into Buxton (28¾ miles).
Among the many alternatives that by way of Fox House
Inn, Hathersage and Castleton is deservedly popular on
account of the fine views: in fact in many respects this is
the best road by which to approach Buxton for the first time.
Leave Leeds by Briggate, cross Aire Bridge, and so to
Hunslet, Outwood and Wakefield (9½ miles). By Kirkgate
and Wakefield Bridge on to Barnsley (20 miles from Leeds).
The road cannot be mistaken through Chapeltown and
Pitsmoor to Sheffield (34 miles from Leeds). From Sheffield to
Buxton (62¾ miles from Leeds) as in Route III.
By Route A6 through Ardwick Green and Longsight to
Stockport (7 miles). Then on through Hazel Grove, Disley
and Whaley Bridge to Buxton (24 miles from Manchester).
Each of the trips outlined in this chapter includes some
scene of natural beauty or feature of special interest, and
together the trips embrace practically every item in the
Index to this Guide. To the Index (pp. 125-128) the motorist
is referred for descriptions and further information relative
to the places named.
I. HOPE VALLEY (viâ Miller's Dale).
Leave Buxton by way of Ashwood Dale (Valley of Wye).
The road leaves the river at Topley Pike, climbs, and then
we turn to the left and descend to Miller's Dale. Crossing the
river pass under viaduct and ascend towards Tideswell.
Bear right in town, leaving Church on left, and at Lane
Head cross-roads, a mile on, go forward to the hamlet of
Windmill. Here turn left (see map) and almost immediately
right, down Bradwell Dale, passing first Hazlebadge Hall
(right) and then (left) the Roman Camp near Brough (Anavio).
Crossing the river Noe, we are in the Hope Valley. In
front is Win Hill (1,523 feet). Turn left and follow main
road through Hope to Castleton.
Leave Castleton by main road (that through the Winnats
is best left alone by ordinary motorists; but the Winnats
road leads to the Speedwell Mine) and ascend towards Mam
Tor (hairpin bend). Keep to right at fork beyond entrance
to Blue John Mine and for sake of the fine “surprise” view
over the Peak and Edale turn back sharp to right half a mile
farther. The view-point is known as Mam Nick: on the
right is Mam Tor, on the left Rushup Edge. After enjoying
the view return to. main road and continue to Chapel-en-le-Frith.
Hence the road to Buxton is that turning sharp back
to left at entrance to town, and to the right at Clough Inn
2 miles farther.
IA. A variation of the foregoing route which is well
worth while. At Hope Church turn to the right beside
the Old Hall Hotel. In half a mile or so bear left beside th
river and follow it through the lovely Vale of Edale. At the
hamlet of Barber Booth, a mile beyond Edale Station, turn
up to left and by a long climb reach Mam Nick (see above).
II. SURPRISE VIEW (viâ Middleton Dale and
Froggatt Edge).
This is the Surprise View; but those who explore this end
of the Pennines will find that each of the roads crossing the
range from Sheffield provides a view which is hardly less
surprising either in the suddenness with which it opens up
or in its extent and beauty. The view as we reach the top
of the hill from Calver, for instance, is of extraordinary
loveliness. From Buxton to Tideswell and Lane Head as
in Route I. At Lane Head turn right, pass through Wardlow
Mires and down Middleton Dale as far as turning on left for
Eyam. After visiting Eyam, return and descend Middleton
Dale to cross-roads at Calver.
Here take left road, shortly turning to right off Grindleford
Road, and crossing the Derwent; ascend Froggatt Edge
(stiff climb) to Fox House Inn. (On left is Longshaw Estate,
now happily in the care of the National Trust.) At the
Inn bear left along Hathersage road, crossing Burbage Brook
to Surprise View.
Continue the descent into Hathersage (for the church, by
the way, bear off to right on entering village), thence follow
river and railway to Hope. Thence viâ Castleton, Mam Tor
and Chapel-en-le-Frith (as in Trip No. I); or viâ Hope and
Edale as in IA;; or, if time is short, keep left at the fork
beyond the climb up the face of Mam Tor and regain Buxton
by way of Sparrowpit, Clough Inn (turn left) and Doveholes.
(Full trip - 42 miles; alternative - 40 miles).
III. MANIFOLD VALLEY AND DOVEDALE.
Leave Buxton by London Road (old Roman road)
Between 2 and 3 miles out turn right, up hill, then descend
through Glutton Dale, cross the Dove by Glutton Bridge,
and ascend into Longnor (Staffs). Proceed south by the
Cheadle road for A miles and turn left for Hulme End.
From Hulme End follow the Alstonefield road for a few
hundred yards and then turn off on right for Ecton. The
road curves past the silent quarries, but on approaching
Butterton the scenery improves. Do not cross river here,
but turn up to the left. For the next few miles the road
runs beside the river through some of the best scenery in th
Manifold Valley. (Motorists should beware of gates.) Beyond
the watersplash at Wetton Mill the road crosses the Manifold
a few yards above the point where the river dives underground.
Then the road rises rapidly and soon there is a fine
view of Thor's Cave. From Wetton make for Alstonefield
and round by Lode Mill and Milldale to Ilam, where bear left.
A mile from Ilam the Dove is crossed (the way into Dovedale
is by the riverside lane entered through the hotel gates).
The road we are on climbs to Thorpe village, whence we make
for the main Ashbourne-Buxton road at the gates of Tissington
“and so home”.
Those with limited time in the district may get a glimpse
of the best part of Beresford Dale by following the Hartington
road for half a mile from Hulme End and then turning right.
In about a mile a left-hand turn leads down to the river at
the foot of Beresford Dale.
To rejoin Manifold Valley route, return up lane, turn right
and in a quarter of a mile fork to left. On reaching
Alstonefield Road turn right for Hulme End.
IV. AXE EDGE, LUDCHURCH AND MACCLESFIELD.
Leave Buxton viâ Burbage Church and Leek Road.
Proceed alongside Axe Edge, passing by the Dove Head (source
of river Dove). At 4½ miles turn right for Flash (
Quarnford) and descend to Manor Farm (see p. 114) and Gradbach
Mill. (Leave car to visit Ludchurch and Roaches.) On
regaining car drive through Allgreave, and some way beyond
it turn right for Macclesfield. From Macclesfield return by
the main road, passing the Cat and Fiddle and entering
Buxton through Burbage (28 miles).
V. LEEK AND RUDYARD LAKE.
Take the route over Axe Edge as in Trip No. IV, but
continue by the main road to Leek (12 miles). From Leek
take the Macclesfield road for Rudyard Lake and thence by
Bosley into Macclesfield: with a left-hand detour in order
to see Gawsworth. The return to Buxton is by the main
road, passing the Cat and Fiddle. (37 miles.)
Leave Buxton by the Macclesfield road through Burbage.
Between 3 and 4 miles from Buxton bear left on to the
Congleton road and then take first turn to right down through
the trees to Wildboarclough. In the village turn sharply
to right. The road then follows a winding stream to the
Stanley Arms Inn at road junction. Here turn to right,
rejoin the Macclesfield road, and return to Buxton by the
Cat and Fiddle. (15½ miles.)
VII. ARBOR LOW, LATHKIL DALE AND CHATSWORTH.
Leave Buxton by London Road. Rather more than 8
miles out, near Parsley Hay Station, double back by left
fork road and then immediately turn right. Enter straight
stretch called Long Rake (Arbor Low on right), and descend
into Youlgreave. (Several roads, but easiest is second right
turn.) Descend through Youlgreave to village of Alport.
(Lathkil Dale on left.) Follow same road as far as main road
at Picory Corner (glimpses of Haddon Hall across the way),
where turn right into Rowsley. Crossing the river Derwent
and the railway, turn left through Beeley to Beeley Lodge.
Here cross the river again and proceed by the road through
Chatsworth Park and finally to Baslow.
Begin return journey by road from Baslow to Hassop
Station and thence to Ashford, where the main Buxton
road is met. Follow this home, passing Monsal Dale (right),
through Taddington and Ashwood Dale. (37 miles.)
VIII. MONSAL DALE, HADDON HALL, MATLOCK, VIA
GELLIA AND ROW TOR ROCKS.
Take the Bakewell road (viâ Ashwood Dale - Taddington).
Between Taddington and Ashford is Monsal Dale (left of
road). Proceed through Bakewell, following the river
Wye (on left is seen Haddon Hall.) On through Rowsley
and Darley Dale to Matlock and Cromford. In Cromford
turn right just past Greyhound Hotel and follow the beautiful
wooded Via Gellia to Lilies Inn. From here proceed through
Winster to village of Birchover in order to visit Stanton Moor
and Row Tor Rocks. Then descend to Alport and Youlgreave.
From Youlgreave the return to Buxton is by Parsley Hay
and London Road. (44 miles.)
IX. MILLER'S DALE, CRESSBROOK AND MONSAL DALE.
Follow the Bakewell Road through Ashwood Dale, and
up the ascent of Topley Pike and then (4¾ miles from Buxton)
turn left and run down to Miller's Dale. Beyond the viaduct
keep to the left, up the hill. In about a mile, avoid left
turn for Tideswell and keep on to Litton, where turn sharp
right and follow winding lane which finally descends to
Monsal Dale by the beautifully wooded Cressbrook Dale.
Beyond Monsal Dale village the road climbs steeply to Monsal
Head, whence there is a lovely view of Monsal Dale. Continue
to Ashford and thence back to Buxton by Taddington.
X. ASHBOURNE, ALTON TOWERS AND THE CHURNET
VALLEY.
Take the London Road, which runs through open country
with extensive views for some 20 miles into Ashbourne.
(Tissington lies off main road on left at 16 miles - the Ford
mentioned on signpost is beyond the village.) From Ashbourne
go by road past the Church, cross the Dove at Mayfield,
and then bear sharp left for Ellastone (passing Calwich Abbey
on left). Proceed to Denstone (crossing river Churnet) and
leave by Cheadle Road for Alton and Alton Towers (lying off
main road to right). Return to main road for Cheadle.
From Cheadle strike due north for a long run home viâ
lpstones and Longnor. The road then descends to Glutton
Bridge (Staffordshire boundary) and rises through Glutton
Dale to the main London Road into Buxton. (56 miles.)
XI. SNAKE PASS AND THE DERWENT RESERVOIRS.
Out of Buxton by Fairfield and Doveholes, turning left
at Clough Inn for Chapel-en-le-Frith, where turn right for
Hayfield and Glossop. Leave Glossop by Sheffield road,
climbing for some 4 miles across wild moorland country,
and then descend to the Snake Inn (on the right Kinder
Scout is seen). The road now continues for 6 miles alongside
the river Ashop into Ashopton, where the Ashop joins the
Derwent. To visit the Reservoirs turn left and follow the
road by the river through the village of Derwent (Derwent
Hall). The road alongside the reservoirs, though a cul-de-sac,
is well worth following: it extends for 7 or 8 miles beyond
Derwent village. Returning to Ashopton cross the Sheffield
road and take that passing the new Lady Bower Reservoir
and through Bamford, just beyond which turn right into the
Hope Valley. In about 1½ miles take turning on left
through Brough and Bradwell Dale and thence home through
Tideswell and Miller's Dale. (See Trips No. Id and II for
alternatives.) [Ed: there does not appear to be a Id]
OCR/transcript by Rosemary Lockie in November 2013.
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