A Guide to Tideswell and Its Church
By Rev J.M.J. Fletcher
Transcriptions by Rosemary Lockie, © Copyright 2013
BY H.H. BEMROSE, Sc.D., F.G.S.
SOMETIME SCHOLAR OF CLARE COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE.
(Author of the Chapter on Geology in Victoria History of
Derbyshire,- Vol. 1; “The Toadstones of Derbyshire”, in Quart: Journ:
Geol: Society, Vol. 63 pp. 241-279, &c., &c.)
TIDESWELL is a very good centre for those who wish to
learn something of the geology and scenery of the
mountain limestone and the igneous rocks associated with
it. These brief notes are not intended to be anything in
the nature of a sketch of the Geology of the district.
Their purpose is merely to point out some of the interesting
rocks easily accessible from Tideswell.
One of the most noticeable features of the district is
that the stone walls, especially when the fields are small,
obtrude themselves on the eye of the visitor and spoil the
scenery. But on Bradwell Moor, Old Moor, and Eldon
Hill, the fields are large, the air is invigorating, and on a
fine day the views are charming. The slightly undulating
character of the limestone tract, trenched here and there
by deep gorges may be studied, and the outlines of the
yoredale sandstone and millstone grit hills bounding the
northern area of the limestone may be seen in the distance.
Those who prefer valleys to moorlands should visit the
valley of the Wye in Millers Dale and Monsal Dale,
Cressbrook Dale, Bradwell Dale, Middleton Dale,
Tideswell Dale, or Brookbottom, and learn how slow but
sure is the action of streams in cutting out these gorges.
Castleton with its caverns is within easy reach and well
worth a visit. The entrance to Peak Cavern is very fine.
In the Speedwell Mine the visitor is taken in a boat along
an artificial level of nearly half-a-mile in length. He then
enters a natural cavern with a very high roof. The water
falls with a deafening roar into the “Bottomless Pit”, the
bottom of which is about 85 feet below the platform. The
Blue John Mine is also partly natural and partly artificial.
It consists of a number of caverns connected by passages.
The walls of the caverns at once remind us of the sides of
some of the gorges, and prove their common origin, viz:
the chemical action of water dissolving the limestone and
the mechanical action of the same agent.
The popular notion of a geologist is that he is merely
a collector of fossils, and that sometimes he is really in
search of lead or gold. A truer estimate is that he is
“studying stones”, or “running up hill and down dale,
knapping the chuckie-stanes to pieces wi' hammers, like sae mony
road makers run daft - to see, as they say, how the warld
was made”. The fossil collector will find specimens in
the neighbourhood of Castleton, in the quarries at Cave
Dale, Pindale, near the Speedwell Mine, and on Tray
Cliff. Corals are numerous in a quarry on the carriage
road from Millers Dale to Tideswell just after leaving
Millers Dale village. In the old marble quarry in Tideswell
Dale and on the opposite side of the valley on the carriage
road three species of corals, viz.: lithostrotion junceum,
lithostrotion irregulare, and Dibunophyllum have been found.
In the quarry close to Anchor Inn, at the six lane ends,
are numerous fossil shells. In a quarry at Peep o'Day,
Litton, the limestone immediately above the volcanic tuff
is rich in fossils, crinoids, brachiopods, polyzoa,
lamelli-branchs, gasteropods and corals of cup form and in bunches
and beds.
Tideswell is near the centre of the northern area of
volcanic activity of the county. Whilst the mountain
limestone was being quietly deposited on the sea bottom
small submarine volcanoes poured out their molten lavas or
ejected their fragments of volcanic detritus or tuff over the
sea floor. At a later period, long after the limestone had
solidified, hot igneous rock pushed its way up through fissures
and spread between the beds of limestone, or the different
lava flows, but never reached the surface of the ground.
Owing to the wear and tear of the rocks proofs of this
former volcanic activity are exposed to view, and may be
seen near Tideswell.
One of the most interesting exposures of an interbedded
tuff is at Litton, in the roadbank near Peep o'Day. It is
about 150 or 200 feet thick, and consists of alternations of
fine and course laminæ, of a green and yellow colour with
pebbles of coralline limestone and, blocks of compact
igneous rock up to eighteen inches in length. It may be
followed down to Cressbrook Dale, and in the opposite
direction under Litton Edge, and across the road between
Tideswell and six lane ends.
One of the best exposures of a lava stream may be seen
in Millers Dale on the lowest road to Tideswell, a few
hundred yards after leaving Millers Dale village. The rock
is dark, contains numerous steam holes, some of which are
filled with carbonate of lime, and give the rock a spotted
appearance. This is the lower lava stream of the district,
and is seen again in Monks Dale, and in Millers Dale near
Chee Tor Tunnel. The upper lava, which is about 150
feet higher in the limestone beds is seen in Priestcliffe lane
and at the top of Knott Low near Millers Dale Station, and
may be traced for several miles in the direction of Taddington
and Chelmorton Low.
To students of igneous rocks, the old marble quarry in
Tideswell Dale cannot fail to prove interesting. A fault
runs across the valley near the sewerage farm, and on both
sides the igneous rock abuts against the limestone beds which
are higher in the series. About half-a-mile further south there
is another fault. It crosses the middle road where the road
makes a sharp bend, passes down a small gully and runs
up a depression south of the marble quarry. The
limestone between these faults contains several flows of
contemporaneous lava and volcanic mud. The area has been
carefully worked out by the author, and it has been found
that the intrusive rock or sill has pushed its way between
the beds of limestone and the lava flows. This sill is from
60 to 70 feet thick, and cuts across the lower parts of the
lava, but sometimes rests upon the limestone below. The
marble in this quarry is a limestone which has been baked
by the hot intrusive rock. On the opposite side of the valley
the baked limestone, the indurated or baked clay now in
small columns, and also the lava below the intrusive rock,
may be seen. The lava above the sill is found on the hill
slope on the right hand side going towards Tideswell. The
intrusive rock or dolerite has been quarried for road metal.
Another of these intrusive masses covers a large surface
near Potluck, and large blocks of it are found in the fields.
A third mass occurs at Peak Forest, in Dam Dale. The
alternation of the limestones above the igneous rock extends
for some feet and forms an interesting study.
We now bring these brief remarks to a close, and express
a hope that they may not only lead visitors but also some of
the inhabitants of Tideswell to examine for themselves some
of the interesting features of Geology of the immediate
vicinity of Tideswell.
OCR/transcript by Rosemary Lockie in March 2013.
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