WIRKSWORTH is a market-town, in the parish of its name, which is partly in the hundred of Wirksworth, and extending into those of Appletree and High Peak; 139 miles from London, 48 S.S.E. from Manchester, 20 S.E. from Buxton, 14 S. by W. from Chesterfield, the like distance N.N.W. from Derby, 6 N.W. from Belper, and 3 S. from Matlock Bath; situate near to the direct road from the metropolis to Manchester. In Domesday survey it is called Werchesvorde, but, according to vulgar tradition, it took its derivation from the circumstance of malefactors being condemned to work in the lead-mines here, and their labours proving valuable, it was said their work is worth, hence the easy transition to its present mode of spelling.

Wirksworth comprises three manors: first, the King's, or paramount manor, in right of his dutchy of Lancaster, for which there are annually two courts baron held about Easter and Michaelmas, and a court-leet for the wapentake at Easter; Richard Arkwright, Esq. of Willersley Castle, being the present lord of this manor and wapentake, as lessee of the crown: he is also lessee of the King's or mineral duties and privileges of the whole wapentake. The second is the rectory, or the dean of Lincoln's manor, for which a court is held once a year. The third is a manor extending, as it is said by Lysons, into the townships of Middleton, Hopton, Carsington, Kirk Ireton, and Hognaston, and called Holland's or Richmond's manor, granted by the crown, in 1553, to Ralph Gell, Esq. of Hopton, whose descendant, Philip Gell, Esq. of Hopton Hall, is the present lord. The magistrates in the town and neighbourhood sit on the market-day; but there is no particular government, a constable and headborough being the only municipal officers. The town-hall is a handsome building of stone and the mote-hall is a neat modern erection; in the latter mineral causes are adjudged at Easter and Michaelmas. Wirksworth is one of the stations, appointed by the new Boundary Act, for receiving votes at the election of knights of the shire to represent the southern division of the county.

The lead business has been for centuries the staple trade of the place; but, from exhaustion and other causes, the productiveness of the mines has greatly decreased, and the prosperity of this town has consequently declined. About sixty years ago a pig of lead, weighing 126 pounds, was discovered on Cromford moors, with the name of the Emperor Adrian, in raised letters, upon it, and others of a similar kind have been found in places adjacent; these circumstances form good evidence that mines of this metal were worked here by the Romans, and it is ascertained that the Saxons found them productive in the eighth century. The denominative qualities of the lead ore are distinguished by the names of bing and peser, and a third, which, being passed through a sieve in washing, is called smitham; the fourth, caught by a slow stream of water, is termed beleand, and is as fine as flour, but the most inferior in quality. All the ore, as it comes from the mines, is beaten in pieces, and washed by women; the lead is then melted in furnaces, and poured into moulds of various sizes.

There are several considerable manufactories for hats in the town and neighbourhood, and one for tape and smallwares; gingham weaving and woolcombing also give employment to many of the inhabitants. The small river Ecelesbourn affords facilities to some of these branches, and likewise turns several corn-mills. The Cromford canal runs parallel with the river for the dimance of about three miles, passing on to Whaley, in Cheshire, where it communicates with the Peak Forest canal. The completion of that great undertaking, the 'Cromford and High Peak Railway', which crosses the road by means of a bridge of one arch, between Wirksworth and Cromford, is a great local convenience.

The edifices for divine worship comprise the parish church, and chapels for baptists, independents and Wesleyan methodists. The church, which is dedicated to St. Mary, is a handsome structure in the later style of English architecture, with a square tower, supported in the centre by four large pillars, and contains some ancient monuments. The living is a vicarage, in the patronage of the Dean of Lincoln; the present incumbent is the Rev. John Harward. The principal charities consist of the free grammar school, founded and endowed by Anthony Gell, of Hopton, in 1576, and rebuilt within these few years, at an expense of £2,000. and upwards; alms-houses for six poor persons, founded by the same benevolent gentleman; and divers bequests made by charitable individuals, whereby the poor are benefitted at certain periods.

In Wirksworth are several genteel residences, and in the neighbourhood are Willersley castle, the seat of Richard Arkwright, Esq. Hopton hall, the seat of Philip Gell, Esq. &c. &c. The general aspect of the country here is fertile, producing fine herbage, and corn of most descriptions, except on the north side, which, in consequence of the devastation and spoil made by the mining operations, has rather a sterile and barren appearance, although it affords good pasturage for cattle. From the lofty eminence of Alport, and the craggy precipice of Stourris or black rock, rich and extensive prospects are obtained, which for boldness and diversity have few parallels in England. Near the contiguous hamlet of Middleton are groupes of stones, which antiquaries decide to have been of druidical arrangement.

The weekly market is on Tuesday: fairs are on Shrove Tuesday, Easter Tuesday, May 12th, July 8th, September 8th, and the third Tuesday in November, for cattle, pedlary &c. the last named being also a statute fair for hiring servants. The entire parish of Wirksworth contained, in 1821, 7,315 inhabitants, and in 1831, 7,754, of which last number 5,096 were returned for the town, including 1,014 belonging to the hamlet of Middleton-by-Wirksworth.

CROMFORD, a market-town and township, in the parish of Wirksworth, situate about midway between that town and Matlock, is eminently distinguished by the extensive cotton works, established by the late Sir Richard Arkwright, the father of the improvements effected in this branch of trade in this country. These works are now in the proprietary of Messrs. Peter Arkwright and Co. which, with the lead mines, smelting works, manufacture of red lead, grinding and preparing calaminaris, &c. give employment to a great number of hands, and renders this village of high importance in a mercantile view, to which the Cromford canal, and "Cromford and High Peak railway", are great auxiliaries.

Willersley castle, the beautiful seat of Richard Arkwright, Esq. stands on the south side of a commanding eminence, which terminates the extensive range of rocks that forms the eastern boundary of the Derwent in its course through Matlock dale: the castle consists of a body, in the form of an oblong square, having a circular tower rising from the centre of the roof, and semi-circular ones projecting from the entrance and the two wings, with a round tower at each angle: the whole edifice is embattled, and the exterior of white free stone. This building was erected by the late Sir Richard Arkwright, in the year 1782; & on the 8th of August, 1791. the house (before it was inhabited) was, by an overheated stove, set on fire, and the combustible part consumed. The present mansion is furnished with great taste and neatness; the gardens and walks are most judiciously laid out, and the plantations are rich and extensive; the gardens are opened to the public every Monday and Thursday.

The chapel here, under the establishment, was begun by the late Sir Richard Arkwright, and finished by his son Richard; the living is a perpetual curacy, in the gift of the family. Here are a Wesleyan methodist chapel, and Sunday schools, the latter established by the late Sir Richard Arkwright, to whom, indeed, the origin of the town may be entirely ascribed. In 1790 this gentleman obtained the grant of a market, which is now held on Saturday. The township contained, at the last census, 1,291 inhabitants.

ALDERWASLEY is a township, in the parish of Wirksworth, about two miles E. by S. from that town. The mansion of Francis Hurt, Esq. is pleasantly situate near the church, and commands an extensive prospect. Population 424.

BRASSINGTON, a township and village, in the parish of Bradbourn, and in the hundred of Wirksworth, is four miles N.W. from the last named town, and contains about 700 inhabitants, principally in agricultural employment.

CARSINGTON is a small parish, about two miles and a half W. from Wirksworth, containing a small ancient church, dedicated to St. Margaret; the living is a rectory, of which the dean of Lincoln is the patron. The parish contained, in 1831, 286 inhabitants, who are chiefly supported by agriculture and mining.

HOPTON is a small township, in the parish of Wirksworth, about two miles W. by S. from that town, placed in a deep valley, and guarded by lofty rocks. Here is the seat of Philip Gell, Esq. chairman of the quarter sessions for the county, whose family has been resident here since the time of Queen Elizabeth. In the village are alms-houses for two poor men and two poor women, erected by Sir Philip Gell in 1719 The population is 118.

HOLLOWAY and LEA are two villages, two and a half miles from Cromford, containing considerable lead works, a manufactory for hosiery and merino spinning, and one for hats. The situation of these village is highly picturesque. From Lea the inclined plane of the High Peak railway ascends to the summit of the lofty bills which environ Cromford. Lea, or Dethwick Lea, and Holloway (in the parish of Ashover), form one hamlet, containing 675 inhabitants.

POST OFFICE:- Coldwell-street, WIRKSWORTH, Mrs. Mary Brace, Post Mistress:- Letters from LONDON and DERBY arrive every day at half- past twelve, and are despatched every morning at twenty minutes past six:- Letters from BAKEWELL and the NORTH arrive every morning at six, and are despatched every afternoon at one.

Description(s) from Pigot and Co's Commercial Directory for Derbyshire, 1835.
Transcribed by Rosemary Lockie in May 1996.