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Bradwell: Ancient and Modern
A History of the Parish and of Incidents in the Hope Valley.
By Seth Evans (1912)
Transcriptions by Rosemary Lockie, © Copyright 2013
Chapter XXIV.
SOME PLACES OF INTEREST.
A situation more delightfully romantic
it would be difficult to find. Surrounded on
three sides by mountains of great altitude,
open on the other side to the delightful
vale of Hope, with Winhill and Losehill
reminders of the terrible slaughter during
the Heptarchy, the situation of Bradwell is
ideal for health and pleasure alike, while
its curiously winding lanes are lined by
the cottages that have been there for
centuries, and the summit of Bradwell Edge,
to which access may be gained by a
gradually ascending path from the Abney Road,
affords one of the most extensive and
delightful views to be found on any
mountain in England. One or two of the most
interesting spots may be mentioned.
Robin Hood's Cross.
“I think of ages long since gone,
Of those who wrought with tools of stone;
I think of hunters free and bold,
Who dwelt up here in days of old”. |
--- J.E. Bradwell. |
ROBIN HOOD'S CROSS (from an Old Drawing);
also a Stile made from the Cross.
The numerous crosses and remains of
crosses met with in the Peak provide
interesting study. The base and a portion of
the shaft of one of these is in a field
between Bradwell and Hope, but much nearer
to the latter place. It is the last field
before descending the hill above Eccles to
Hope, and is only separated from the road
by a stone wall. It is a most interesting
object of antiquity that ought to be
carefully preserved.
There are but few, however, who have the
least idea that Bradwell possesses the
remains of one of these pre-Norman crosses,
for such the learned Dr. Cox concludes
them to be.
In the Public Record Office there are
many plans of the ancient Forest of the
Peak, one of which is of immense interest.
It was prepared in the time of Queen
Elizabeth, about 1590, and has small
pictures or sketches outlining the churches and
buildings of the principal places in the
district of the forest - Glossop, Hayfield,
Mellor, Chapel-en-le-Frith, Castleton, Hope,
Tideswell, Wormhill, and Fairfield. There
are also outlines of the various crosses,
including a sketch of “Robin Hood's Cross”,
which is shown to be in Bradwell, but just
at a point where the township of Bradwell.
Hazlebadge, and Abney converge.
The remains of this monument, which has
weathered the storms of a thousand years,
may be found by following the Abney
footpath up Bradwell Edge as far as the stile
leading into the roadway at Abney Moor
Gate. As already stated, the cross stood
on the boundary line of these townships,
and when the commons were enclosed the
boundary wall was built over the rough
base stone of the cross, which with half the
squared socket may be seen in the bottom
of the wall. The drawing shows the cross
to have had a double base, with a shaft of
considerable height.
The base of the cross is visible from the
Abney Road side of the wall close to the
gate, and is rendered easy of inspection by
a kind of arch having been formed over
it. The stone is about twenty inches
square, but has been broken completely in
two across the centre, probably when the
shaft was wrenched from the socket.
There appears to be no doubt whatever
that the massive stones forming the stile
leading from the first to the second field
in the direction of Bradwell are the
remains of the cross itself. One of these
pieces is 3 feet 6 inches long, and another
three feet long above the ground, but they
are doubtless a great depth below the
surface, while a third piece 3 feet 6 inches long
lies on the ground. These would make a
shaft about ten feet high. One of the
pieces in use as a stump of the stile is
clearly a portion of the cross, as it is L
shape, showing a portion of a Latin cross.
As an interesting relic of antiquity the
cross ought to be restored and erected on
the old base in its original position.
The Batham Gate and Roman Camp.
These two highly interesting spots have
been described in the earlier part of this
work.
The Bagshawe or Crystallized Cavern.
This cavern, one of the most magnificent
of England's famous caves, is the property
of Mr. W.H.G. Bagshawe, J.P., D.L., of
Ford Hall, Chapel-en-le-Frith. It was
discovered in the year 1807 by miners who,
when working in the Mulespinner Mine,
broke in on this splendid suite of caves.
It takes its name from Lady Bagshawe,
who was one of the first to visit the place,
and whose husband, Sir William Chambers
Bagshawe, was one of the proprietors when
it was discovered.
A small building on the hillside close to
the town is over the entrance to this
beautiful place. The cavern is approached by
126 steps, hewn out of the rock. Here is
Hutchinson's account of it when he toured
the Peak in 1808, the year after the cavern
had been discovered:
“There is no grandeur in its first
appearance; it is rather terrific than
otherwise, and is as much like going down into
a deep dungeon as anything I can compare
with. After descending about 300 steps,
very perpendicular, you then walk, or more
properly creep, on an inclined way for near
a quarter of a mile, the opening being so
low that it is impossible at times to get
forward without going on all fours, though
the road, if it be so called, is considerably
improved of late; for it is not long since a
gentleman of my acquaintance actually
stuck fast between the rocks and was ten
minutes before he could extricate himself,
and then not without severely bruising his
back. The different crystallizations which
now attract the attention on every side, and
above and below the passage, cause you to
forget the irksomeness of the road and to
drive away every idea of fatigue. New
objects of curiosity begin to crowd one upon
another. Here there is the appearance of
the pipes of an organ called ‘The Music
Chamber’; in other places the stalactites
are formed into elegant small collonades,
with as exact a symmetry as if they had
been chiselled by the greatest artist.
Candles judiciously disposed in the inside
of them gave an idea of the palaces of
fairies, or the sylphs and genii, who have
chosen this magnificent abode. In a recess
on the left there appears the resemblance
of a set of crystallized surgical
instruments”.
“But still you have seen nothing in
comparison with what you are to expect; for
in the course of 100 yards further, creeping
at times, and passing down rugged places,
you enter the Grotto of Paradise. This
heavenly spot, for it cannot be compared
with anything terrestrial, is of itself a
beautiful crystallized cave about 12 feet
high and 12 feet long, pointed at the top
similar to a Gothic arch, with a countless
number of large stalactites hanging
pendant from its roof. Candles placed amongst
them give some idea of its being lighted up
with elegant glass chandeliers, while the
sides are entirely incrusted and brilliant in
the extreme. The floor is chequered with
black and white spar, and altogether it has
the most novel and elegant appearance of
any cavern I ever beheld. This paradaisical
apartment would be left with a kind of
regret should you not expect to see it again
on returning back”.
“Still continuing a similar road to what
has been passed, and entertained at
various times with the curiosities of the place,
and the gentle patterings of the water,
which scarcely break the solemn silence of
the scene, at length you arrive at the Grotto
of Calypso, and the extremity of the cavern,
above 2,000 feet from the first entrance. In
order to see this to advantage it is
necessary to rise into a recess about a yard high.
There, indeed, from the beautiful
appearance of the different crystallizations, some
of them of an azure cast, from the echoes
reverberating from side to side, you fancy
yourself to be arrived at the secluded
retreat of some fabled Deity. The water
also running near this cavern brings a cool
refreshing air which, from the exertion
used and the closeness of the place, is very
acceptable. The size of this grotto is
something similar to that of the last, and indeed
it is difficult to determine which is the most
interesting. I could not restrain my
imagination from composing the following
little sonnet to the titular goddess of the
place:-
SONNET TO CALYPSO.
Ah! Tell me Goddess, whither wilt thou fly,
To shun the anguish of a love-sick mind;
The mocking echoes here will only sigh,
With baffling breath. ‘Telemachus unkind!’
Thy grotto's sweet cirul'an hue in vain,
To thee its dazzling lustre will impart;
Amidst thy sorrows here, thou must complain,
And pensive wreck thy deep desponding heart.
Alas! the sportive nymphs in vain allure!
The God-like youth distains the beauteous form; |
True to himself, and to his purpose sure,
Though shipwrecked-bold, again he braves the storm.
Ah! Fly to Lethe's stream, Calypso, fly!
In sweet oblivion let thy anguish die. |
After returning by the same path for a
considerable distance, there is another
cavern to be investigated, which branches
in a south-westerly direction from the one
already explored. The roads here are still
more difficult of access, but certainly the
stalactites are more beautiful. A great
many of them are pendant from the roof
more than a yard long, and almost as small
as the smallest reed. The top and sides
of this second cavern in many places are
remarkably smooth, particularly the part
called the amphitheatre. In general this
place is of a very dark stone, to which the
transparent appearances before-mentioned,
with each a drop of water hanging at the
bottom, form a fine contrast, and indeed
this cavern is in some degree a contrast to
the one before examined.
Returning back we still admire the
curiosities before noticed, and with regret
leave this beautiful crystallized cavern, its
representation in idea still continuing
before the mind's eye, where it will remain
as long as memory holds her seat”.
Many additional chambers have been
explored during the century, and much money
has been expended to make the
exploration of this cavern easier.
There is a curious hole in the rock called
“The Elephant's Throat”, and in the roof
a band of chert appears like the sole of a
foot, with stalactites hanging on to the toes.
From its enormous size, about five feet
long, it is called “The Giant's Foot”. In
the roof of the “Bell House” are a
number of holes looking like bells hanging in a
church tower. In a compartment which
has been named “The Bursting of the
Tomb”, the crystallizations are so
magnificent that a visitor was once so
incredulous as to apply the lighted candle to see if
he could not detect what he thought was a
fraud and not the work of nature.
“The Chamber of Worms” exactly
describes the appearance of the small curling
stalactites on the roof and sides, looking
like worms wriggling out of the rock, and
in “Tom of Lincoln's Bell Hall”, a drop
of water falls from the roof, which
frequently changes colour from white to red,
giving a beautiful variegated appearance to
the stalagmite forming underneath. From
“The Dungeon” other spacious openings
have been found, and could a road from
the valley be made into this magnificent
suite of caves there is no doubt the cavern
would be much more extensively visited.
The guide resides in the village.
Bradwell Dale.
THE DALE - ONE OF BRADWELLS BEAUTY SPOTS.
It is here that the Ghost of Margaret Vernon is said to appear.
This romantic ravine is considered one of
the most beautiful of Derbyshire Dales.
With high rocks and precipitous cliffs on
each side extending about three-quarters of
a mile to Hazlebadge Hall, it is a
delightful walk. The rocks are of immense
height, and the extensive blasting of stone
of late years whilst accomplishing the
widening of the road through the dale, has
not spoiled the scenery. A lead vein
crosses the ravine and here the old
workings may be plainly seen. There are also
public footpaths on the very summit of the
rocks on one side, from which persons on
the road in the bottom of the dale look like
midgets, such are the dizzy heights above.
From top to bottom the dale is a delightful
spot.
Medicinal Waters of the Bath.
“But those hot waters were known in old time,
The portway or High paved street named Bathgate
Beaching for seven miles together from hence unto
Burgh a little village doth manifestly shew”. |
--- Camden, 1610. |
An object of considerable interest and
one that might be made a great asset to
the district is the Bath at Edentree, from
which “The New Bath Hotel” takes its
name, but all that can be seen of a once
famous medicinal spring is now a building
in ruins in the Bath field at the rear of
the hotel. The author of the “English
Traveller” (1794), speaking of Burgh (or
Brough) as “a village where there are some
remains of an ancient Roman Causeway”,
adds, “And it is the opinion of most of
the learned that those adventurers
frequented the place on account of its baths”.
Pilkington, in 1789, says: “I have heard
of only one salt spring in Derbyshire. It
is situate in the High Peak, betwixt the
villages of Hope and Bradwell, and near a
rock called Edintree. I have not seen it
myself, though I took some pains to
discover it, but am credibly informed that the
impregnation is considerably strong. It is
said to be useful in ulcerous and scorbutic
complaints”. The “Gentleman's
Magazine” for 1819 mentions the “sulphurous
spring” at Bradwell, and later Glover, the
historian, mentions “the salt spring at
Bradwell, which is worthy the attention of
the faculty”. About 1830 the waters were
collected by Mr. Robert Middleton, of
Smalldale, the proprietor, the building
erected, and the bath constructed. For
many years the waters were sought by
many on account of their healing nature,
and conveyed in barrels and vessels long
distances, and thousands have derived
benefit from the baths, the waters being
very few degrees lower in temperature than
the Buxton waters. But for the last
forty years the place has been neglected.
The bath itself is about five feet deep, and
is approached by a descent of six stone
steps, the water being conducted from the
springs into the bath itself. This is
doubtless a very valuable spring.
The Echo.
Although there are some notable echoes
among the Peakland hills, the most
strikingly curious echo ever heard, even by
those who have travelled extensively, is
found in Bradwell, and visitors have
travelled miles to hear it. Fortunately,
it is on a public path, and any child knows
“The Echo Field”. Taking the field path
to Castleton, it is about half a mile out of
Bradwell, just before reaching Messrs.
Hadfield's asphalt works. Such is the echo from
the “Folly” that to describe it is difficult.
The sounds produced are most uncanny in
the night time, many voices responding to
your own, almost close to your ear. A good
story is told about a clergyman being
taken along this path in the dark by a
farmer. The cleric was unaware of the
echo. When they were approaching the
place, the farmer said, as if in fear, “There
is only one spot on this lonely road where I
grasp my stick a bit tighter, and we are
just coming to it”. The parson laughed
at his dread. Presently a rough hand was
placed on the preacher's collar, and a score
of voices yelled, “We've got you now”. It
was only the farmer's joke, but the parson
confessed that the sensation was not an
agreeable one.
OCR/transcript by Rosemary Lockie in February 2013.
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