THESE are situated some 9 miles south-west to south-south-west of Buxton. The Buxton - Leek motors will carry outward-bound pedestrians to Flash Bar and take them back from Upper Hulme, eastward of the Roaches.

The first part of the route is by the Leek Road along the flank of Axe Edge (p. 48).

Just before the fourth milestone the Derbyshire and Staffordshire boundary is reached at Dove Head Farm, opposite which a flagged path leads down to Dove Head. The source of the river is indicated by a humble “shrine” enclosing a little pool of crystal clear water and upon a time-stained stone are carved the initials of Izaak Walton and Charles Cotton, to whom the Dove owes so much of its fame. Near at hand is the source of the Manifold (see p. 48).

Half a mile farther is Flash Bar, where stands the Traveller's Rest (1,535 feet above sea-level). A little beyond the inn we take the right-hand turning for Quarnford, otherwise-

an insignificant village whose monosyllabic name has become part of the English language. Of old the place was the resort of “badgers”, or hawkers, who squatted on the waste lands and commons in the district, and were notorious for their half barbarous manners and brutal pastimes. Travelling from fair to fair, and using a cant, or slang dialect, they became generally known as “Flash-men”, - a name which has survived them, and is in use, with a slightly different meaning, at the present day. They passed the winter in the village, and for want of something better to do employed their time in making spurious money, which they readily circulated during their summer migrations, and the coins so produced became known as “Flash money”.

The village, being on the confines of three counties, Staffordshire (of which it forms part), Cheshire and Derbyshire,

was greatly in favour with pugilists, who, by moving their ring for a yard or two, could defy the efforts of the “posse comitatus” of the county in which they had at first assembled.

The Church occupies the highest site of any church in England.

From Flash two roads run to the south-west. The shorter goes straight down a lane. It is useful for pedestrians, but is too rough for vehicles, which follow a more circuitous route through a pretty valley, in company with one of the earliest tributaries of the Dane. The roads re-unite a mile and a quarter from Flash. A little beyond the junction the road descends to the Manor Farm.

(more properly Lud's Church) is said to be named after one of the earliest preachers of the Reformation. It is a rocky rift in the side of the hill, a quarter of a mile long and ranging from 30 to 50 feet in depth. Placed near the western extremity of an extensive moorland district, anciently known as the Back Forest, Ludchurch long afforded means of shelter and concealment to outlaws and disaffected people, criminals and rebels. Tradition says that here services were conducted by Friar Tuck in the presence of Robin Hood and his merry men; and it is certain that some of the Lollards met here for worship during the persecutions in the reign of Henry V. For many years the cleft was decorated

by an old figure-head from a ship, fancifully described as a Statue of Alice de Lud-auk, a woman shot by the soldiers who broke up one of the conventicles. The figure was, however, torn down by some young hooligans in 1935.

The entrance is overshadowed by rocks and the mountain ash and other trees. The path first leads to an almost circular compartment, surrounded by rocky masses of considerable height. Some time-worn steps then lead down to long and narrow chasm with lofty sides. The ravine terminates in a deep hole, whence descends the Cavern of Ludchurch, about which little is definitely known.

So near are the opposite cliffs in parts of Ludchurch, and so completely is the chasm hidden by foliage, that horsemen have ridden close to its edge before becoming aware of danger. It is on record that Squire Trafford, of Swythamley, when out with the hounds, once found himself so unexpectedly near the brink of Ludchurch that to save his life he, by voice and spurs, forced his horse to jump the cleft. The feat was safely accomplished and the spot still bears the name of Trafford's Leap.

Leaving the chasm, we came in sight of-

a fantastic ridge of rocks eastward of Ludchurch, crowning the wild track of moorland in which that chasm is situated. The ridge is three miles long and two wide. It overlooks the valley of the Dane, in which woods and moors and pastoral scenery are happily blended. Framing the picture are the town of Leek, Rudyard Lake, Swythamley Hall, Mow Cop, and Congleton Edge. The rocks are of millstone grit; and the country folk declare that they stand on the spot where they were left by the Flood.

The Roaches are to be regarded as private ground, but there is a good walk along the lane on their western side all the way to Upper Hulme, on the main Buxton-Leek road (bus route). This lane gives good views of the rocky ridge and of the countryside out to Leek and beyond.

These are in the same direction from Buxton as are Ludchurch and the Roaches, but are some 4 miles farther. Motors run from Buxton.

an old and important town, the “metropolis of the moorlands”, is 12 miles from Buxton. It stands on a declivity on the banks of the Churnet. Through Protestant refugees settling in the town, Leek became one of the seats of the silk manufacture. One of the local attractions is the Market, held on Wednesdays, under a charter granted by King John in 1208 to the Earl of Chester, who was at that time the Lord of the Manor. It is still a function quite in the manner of the olden days, being attended by farmers and their wives from places miles around, also by keen traders from the Potteries. Another market has caused the Market Hall to be known as “The Butter Market”, and at the other end of the town cattle markets are held.

The Parish Church (dedicated to Edward the Confessor) is believed to date from the end of the thirteenth century. Noteworthy features are the fine pinnacled tower and the chancel screen, stalls and stained glass. From the church-yard may be obtained a fine view of the Roaches and of Cloud End, near Congleton, and from this point, for a few days at Midsummer, A Double Sunset may be observed. The sun first disappears behind Cloud Hill and shortly afterwards reappears on the north side for a few minutes, before it sinks below the horizon.

Among the curious epitaphs that may be collected in Leek is that of Thomas Osborn (died 1749):-

Leek, however, is mainly of interest to tourists by reason of its proximity (2 miles) to-

The lake, over 2 miles long and most picturesquely situated, was constructed in 1793, to serve as a reservoir for the Trent and Mersey Canal, by building across the valley a huge dam to hold back the overflow waters of the river Dane and its feeders. The lake is well stocked with fish, and anglers' tickets are issued at the Hotel Rudyard and the Railway Station. Boats and motor-launches can be hired. Adjoining

Rudyard Lake Station, at the north end of the lake, is a good 18-hole golf course.

The picturesque village which gives the lake its name was also the name-place of the late Rudyard Kipling. His father, when a young man, was employed as an artist in the china works at Burslem. In the happy days when he wooed and won the mother of Rudyard Kipling, many visits were made to Rudyard Lake; and it was in consequence of his parents' pleasant memories of those outings that the son, who was to win such reputation by his pen, received his Christian name.

Macclesfield is a very ancient town, 12 miles west of Buxton. Jordan Gate, Chester Gate and Wall or Well Gate, perpetuate the names of the principal gates in the walls which formerly surrounded the town, but which were destroyed in Cromwellian times.

Macclesfield is, of course, famous as the seat of the silk and satin trade; and the visitor who takes the trouble to learn something of the history, customs and processes of the industry will find much of interest.

The most prominent building is St. Michael's Church, generally called the old church, founded by Queen Eleanor, Consort of Edward I, in 1278. The spire was removed in 1740, and the present square tower was then erected. The south aisle, built by Thomas Savage, Archbishop of York, is known as the Savage Chapel, and contains several effigies of that family. In the Chapel of the Leghs of Lyme are ancient monumental tablets. The most interesting is that in memory of Perkin à Legh, beheaded by Henry IV.

The West or Public Park, situated on the outskirts of the town, and approached by way of Chester Gate and Prestbury Road, has at its entrance a Museum containing valuable paintings, exhibits connected with the silk industry, and many objects of general interest. In this park are such noteworthy objects as the old Market Cross and Stocks, monoliths from Ridge Hill and an enormous boulder supposed to have been carried by an iceberg from the coast of Cumberland to the vicinity of its present position. June 22nd (St. Barnabas'

Day, old style), or the first Saturday after that date, marks the beginning of the Barnaby holidays, which, for many of the inhabitants, last a week.

Tideswell, a small town, 8½ miles from Buxton, is said to derive its name from an ebbing and flowing well. Market rights have existed here since the year 1250.

The town is chiefly visited on account of its ancient-

This fine cruciform building is known from its size and beauty as the “Cathedral of the Peak”, and well deserves the honour.

Beautiful Monsal Dale, the “Arcadia of Derbyshire”, lies between the railway and the high-road to Bakewell, at a distance of about 8 miles S.E. from Buxton. Longstone, north of the railway, is about a mile farther. (See also p. 80.)

A walk through the Warren, 1½ miles to the foot of Taddington Dale, is one that will never be forgotten. On one side the valley is richly wooded; on the other rises the steep bare hill of Fin Cop, and this Arcadia is full of interest, not only to the lover of natural beauty, but also to the botanist, geologist and entomologist.

The entrance to the Dale is quite close to the station.

By taking the road on the north side of the line and going up the river, a little more than half a mile brings us to Cressbrook Mill, a huge building at the foot of Raven's Dale, sometimes called Cressbrook Dale, and said to be the locale of Dickens's “Miner's Daughter”. (For note to Miller's Dale, see p. 80.)

Longstone, about a mile and a half from Monsal Dale station, is the station for the villages of Great Longstone and Little Longstone. The former consists mainly of a long street bordering the high-road, and a pretty village green.

Longstone Hall, at the west end of Great Longstone, is said to have been a hunting seat of Henry VIII.

A steep ascent from Great Longstone leads to a commanding ridge known as Longstone Edge, dividing the valleys of the Derwent and the Wye. The highest and central part of the range is only 4½ miles from Bakewell.

Eyam, 14 miles from Buxton, is a cluster of stone houses pleasantly situated high above the Derwent Valley. The inhabitants are mainly engaged in slipper-making.

The Church (St. Helen's) contains a little of every style of architecture from the time of Henry II. The chancel and tower were rebuilt in 1619, and the north aisle in 1866.

In the churchyard is a Runic Cross, quaintly ornamented and believed to date from the eighth century.

But the village is chiefly famous from the fact that it w the native place of those who have justly won the title of-

and the heroism of the rector and his wife and of the Rev. Thomas Stanley, his predecessor, who was ejected for Nonconformity in 1660, but continued to reside in the village and assisted his successor when help was so sorely needed. In the year 1665 at the time when the Great Plague was raging, a box of clothes was sent from stricken London to a tailor in Eyam. The person who opened it was attacked by the plague and died. The pestilence rapidly spread through the village, and in the course of seven months two-thirds of the inhabitants died. Then a hero arose in the person of Mr. Mompesson, the rector. The terrified villagers were naturally anxious to flee from the infected area; but the rector, realizing the possibility of the spread of the plague far and wide by the flight from Eyam, resolutely set to work to persuade his parishioners to keep within their own village area. So strong were his character and influence that he completely succeeded, and the plague was stayed at the limits of the place. He was at once “priest, physician and legislator”. It was his mournful duty to bury within a few months the majority of his parishioners, but he resolutely kept

to his work. His wife was one of those who died, and her tomb may be seen close by the Runic Cross. By an arrangement with the Duke of Devonshire, food was placed on distant rocks for the use of the villagers, and carried by them each day to Eyam at a stated hour. At last the plague ceased; and the many dead, and a few living, with the devoted rector in the forefront, have a place to-day in the records of English heroism.

Mr. Mompesson's chair is shown in Eyam Church, and in a secluded dell, known as the Delf, a little to the west of the church, may be seen the jutting crag known as the Pulpit Rock, from which the Rector preached to the brave men of Eyam when the church was closed from fear of infection.

On the last Sunday in August - Feast Sunday, as it is locally called - there is held in the Delf a commemorative service, which is attended by a large concourse from the countryside and Sheffield.

South-east of Eyam, but more conveniently reached from Buxton by either Hassop or Bakewell stations, is-

a pretty village, in great favour with Sheffield holiday-makers. It is charmingly situated on the eastern bank of the Derwent, 3½ miles from Hassop railway station, 4 from Bakewell and Grindleford, and 5 from Rowsley. The Parish Church, dedicated to St. Anne, is on the banks of the river. It has a low thirteenth-century tower, surmounted by a broach spire. The rest of the edifice appears to have been completed by the end of the fourteenth century.

The main northern entrance to Chatsworth Park is a few yards north of the village, and Chatsworth House, described on pp. 85-92, is a good mile from the entrance gate.

Arbor Low has always been considered the chief antiquarian feature of Derbyshire. It has been named “the Stonehenge of the Midlands”, though it will not bear comparison with the immense stone circle of Salisbury Plain. It consists of a circle of rough unhewn stones, mostly from 6 to 8 feet and 3 or 4 feet broad in the widest part, of variable

thickness and extremely irregular in shape. About thirty of these huge limestone blocks are to be seen, many lying on the ground in an oblique position. Smaller stones are irregularly scattered within the circle, and near the centre are three larger ones, conjectured to have formed part of a cromlech or altar. The circle is surrounded by a deep ditch, outside which is a mound, or vallum. The area encompassed by the ditch is about 50 yards in diameter, the width of the ditch is about 5 yards, and the height of the vallum, although probably much reduced by time, is still from 4 to 6 yards. The whole circumference is computed to be about 170 yards. There are two entrances, facing respectively north and south, each several yards in width. Many of the stones which originally formed this ancient structure have become buried under the accumulations of hundreds of years and others are incorporated in neighbouring walls.

Visitors who wonder at this choice of a village site may care to be reminded that: “In Neolithic times large areas of the British Isles were essentially lands of forest and marsh, and so unhabitable by a people in a low state of culture. Such regions as the limestone hills of Derbyshire were in those times open spaces, and were soon inhabited. The people lived on the downs and moorlands in simple pastoral communities, herding their sheep, cattle and goats”. (See Harold Peake's The English Village.)

Tissington is an idyllic little village, surrounded by trees, and bright with garden-girt grey cottages, neat and trim, that seem to be waiting for a Birket Foster to transfer them to canvas. With its open green and the church, the principal

feature of which is the Norman tower, half hidden in foliage, the village presents as delightful a picture as could well be imagined of rural life and rustic features.

From the early days of spring to the close of autumn the spot is one that lovers of nature and simplicity may visit in full assurance of gratification. But by reason of the observance of the old custom of Well Dressing, there are a few days of the year when Tissington's charms are increased beyond compute.

Among Nature's gifts to the parish are five wells-Cup and Saucer (Hall) Well, Hand's Well, Yew Tree Well, Town Well and Coffin Well. These are perennial springs issuing from th limestone, and, although cold, somewhat resembling the tepid waters of Buxton and Matlock Bath. According to tradition, the flow of the springs continued at a time when all the others in the neighbourhood became dry. In gratitude for the great blessing afforded to the village, the wells were tastefully decorated with the best that could be culled from garden, field and hedgerow. This became an annual festival, held on Ascension Day, though the preparations begin long before the day. A picture of religious significance is designed for each well, and is then worked out by individual flower-petals r pressed on to wet clay, the whole being mounted upon a large wooden frame. The effect is a brilliant mosaic, and must involve immense labour to achieve.

Over each well is placed an appropriate scripture text also worked out in petals. On the festal day there is a short church service. Afterwards the round of the wells is made in procession from the church, a pause being made at each well while hymns are sung and prayers said. The decorations remain till after the following Sunday.

Tissington Hall, a Gothic mansion, the seat of the FitzHerberts, was garrisoned for King Charles during the Civil War, and its history goes back to still more ancient times.

Motorists - and strong walkers - who come to Tissington by the Ashbourne road can make a pleasant circular trip by returning to Buxton viâ Matlock (Tissington to Matlock, about r2 miles). The way is by Parwich, Ballidon and within sight of Brassington rocks to Grange Mill, at the beginning of the beautiful road known as the Via Gellia. At the foot of this road is Cromford, whence one turns left for the Matlocks and the way back to Buxton.

The district which goes by the name of Matlock consists of Matlock Bath, Matlock Bridge and Matlock Bank, and extends along the valley of the Derwent for upwards of 2 miles. The scenery of this part of the valley is perhaps the most romantic in Derbyshire. The river flows through a narrow gorge which begins at Matlock Bridge and ends at Cromford, a mile south of the centre of Matlock Bath. Both Matlock Bridge and Matlock Bank lie a little to the north of this gorge, at the southern end of the strath of Darley Dale, but Matlock Bath is in its very centre, just where the river suddenly sweeps round to the right, and the surrounding hills shut out all the world beside.

That part of Matlock most popular with visitors staying only a few hours is Matlock Bath. It consists mainly of a single long street, following the windings of the Derwent, with shops and houses on one side and a belt of pleasant public gardens bordering both sides of the river on the other. At the back of the town a few streets lead from the main road up the steep slope towards the Heights of Abraham; and in front is a long and most picturesque panorama of cliffs and woodlands.

The thermal springs, which brought prosperity to the district, and gave to this particular Matlock its distinguishing name of Bath, still remain one of the features of the place.

For a description of Matlock and its many interests we must, however, refer readers to our Guide to Matlock. By its assistance a comparison may be made of the respective charms of the Promenade, beloved for its views of river, rock and foliage; the Lovers' Walk, a labyrinth of tree-shaded paths; the sheltered Derwent Gardens; the Pavilion with its Pump Room and Theatre; the Heights of Abraham, High Tor and other view-points; the various Caverns and the Petrifying Wells.